10 Best Shingles & Shakes

Review Analysis Conclusion

Based on analysis of 762 reviews across the ranked products, a clear pattern emerges: the highest-scoring cedar shingles earn their marks from buyers who praise straight, even butts and clean rebutted-and-rejointed edges, while the most consistent criticism across lower-volume listings involves variable thickness or shipping damage rather than the wood itself. Synthetic shake and shingle panels draw positive notes for color consistency and panel rigidity, but several buyers caution that wall flatness matters more than with individual cedar pieces because the wider format highlights uneven sheathing. Asphalt three-tab packs earn praise as a quick repair option, though reviewers consistently remind future buyers to order extra for waste. The clearest confidence signal in this set is volume: products with 35 or more reviews show predictable behavior, while the premium clear-vertical-grain shingle has a smaller feedback base that makes long-term performance harder to verify from ratings alone.

Buying Guide

Understanding Shingle and Shake Sizing

Coverage area and length are the first variables to check when comparing shingles and shakes. Natural cedar shingles typically come in 18-inch or 24-inch lengths, with each size suited to different exposure heights and architectural styles. An 18-inch shingle is the workhorse of most sidewall applications, offering a balanced scale that reads well on small sheds, accent gables, and full home exteriors. Twenty-four-inch shingles provide a taller exposure and fewer visible seams across large wall planes, though they demand more precise layout to keep courses straight over long runs.

When evaluating cartons, look for whether the listing states a half-square or full-square pack. A square in roofing and siding covers roughly 100 square feet at standard exposure. Matching carton size to project size reduces the number of partial bundles left over and helps with estimating waste before you reorder.

Material Grades and Feature Tradeoffs

Western red cedar remains the dominant species for premium shingles and shakes thanks to its natural decay resistance and dimensional stability. Grade within that species matters as much as species:

• Clear vertical grain shows tight, straight grain with minimal knots and is reserved for visible facades where appearance is critical.
• Number 1 grade allows tight knots and modest grain variation, delivering reliable performance at a more approachable price.
• Number 4 (undercourse) grade is typically used for starter rows or hidden layers beneath finished courses.

Kiln-dried shingles arrive with controlled moisture content, which limits immediate shrinkage and helps primers or stains absorb evenly. Air-dried or green shingles may look similar on the pallet but can cup or warp as they acclimate to local humidity. Rebutted and rejointed shingles are machine-trimmed for uniform width and thickness, which speeds installation and yields cleaner horizontal lines. Handsplit shakes carry a rustic, irregular face suited to cottages and mountain-style architecture but require more layout labor.

Primed shingles arrive pre-sealed with a base coat, which is valuable in damp climates or tight construction schedules. Natural groove finishes leave the surface open to a custom stain or natural silvering, at the cost of an extra finishing phase on site.

Quick Specs to Compare

Installation and Setup Considerations

Before the first course goes up, verify that sheathing is clean, flat, and properly weatherproofed. Cedar shingles and shakes are usually installed over furring strips, a rainscreen gap, or a breathable membrane that allows air movement behind the wood. Without that gap, trapped moisture can shorten the life of even kiln-dried stock.

Starter courses often use shorter or lower-grade shingles flipped so the first visible row sits at the correct angle. As you move up the wall, keep exposure consistent and stagger end joints so no vertical seam lines up with the seam two courses below. The stagger pattern improves both water shedding and the visual rhythm of the wall.

Synthetic panels shift the workflow toward a hanging and locking system rather than nailing each piece individually. These systems install faster and do not need the same acclimation time as natural wood, but accurate leveling is critical because rigid panels will telegraph any waviness in the wall beneath them.

Best for vs. Avoid If

Best for:

• Whole-facade re-siding with cedar on a Craftsman or coastal home
• Accent gables, dormers, and entry walls where appearance leads the spec
• Mountain or cottage projects where a handsplit shake face fits the architecture
• Low-maintenance exteriors where a wash-and-forget surface is preferred
• Small roofing patches, shed roofs, and outbuildings

Avoid if:

• The wall sheathing is wavy or out of plane (especially with synthetic panels)
• The project sits under constant overhang drip with no plan for trimming vegetation
• A painted finish is wanted but no plan exists for periodic topcoat maintenance
• The structure sees frequent wetting from sprinklers or snow drift zones

Maintenance and Longevity

Natural cedar needs periodic inspection to reach its full service life. Plan on cleaning surface mildew every few years and reapplying a penetrating stain or finish whenever water stops beading on the surface. In sunny exposures, ultraviolet light will bleach cedar to a silvery gray unless a pigmented preservative is maintained. Grooved or rebutted faces hold finish slightly better than smooth-sawn surfaces because the added texture gives the coating more grip.

Rough-split shakes trap more dust and pollen than smooth shingles, so they may need gentle washing more often. Across all styles, keep vegetation trimmed back from the walls because constant dampness from overhanging branches is one of the fastest ways to shorten the life of any wood siding.

Synthetic shingles offer a wash-and-forget surface that does not accept stains or repaints, so the color chosen at purchase is effectively permanent. That permanence can be an advantage for predictable curb appeal without a maintenance calendar.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Underestimating waste. Add 10 to 15 percent over raw square-footage calculations to cover cuts around windows, doors, and gable returns.
• Skipping the rainscreen gap. A ventilated cavity behind cedar dramatically extends service life in wet climates.
• Mixing batches on the same wall. Different production runs can shift tone slightly, so blend cartons as you go.
• Using the wrong fastener. Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners prevent tannin stains and corrosion bleed.
• Ignoring roof-to-wall transitions. Kick-out flashing and proper step flashing at sidewall-to-roof junctions prevent the most common hidden leak paths.

Reliability Signals to Look For

Consistent thickness is a hallmark of good millwork. Rebutted and rejointed products should show even butts across the entire carton; reviews mentioning frequent splitting during nailing or highly variable widths suggest uneven drying or rough production. A kiln-dried label is a positive signal because it indicates factory-controlled curing rather than field drying.

Pay attention to how sellers package bulk orders. Shingles are fragile in long cartons, and listings that mention reinforced packaging or protected freight tend to arrive with fewer broken corners. A high average rating paired with detailed written feedback about grain quality and uniform color is usually more instructive than a near-perfect score based on only a handful of ratings.

How to Compare Reviews

Focus on reviews that mention project types similar to yours: a buyer who sided a garden shed will notice different traits than one who clad a two-story home. Look for comments about delivery condition, since broken butts or cracked shingles in the carton add hidden labor. Check whether reviewers discuss finishing outcomes: primed shingles should accept a topcoat without tannin bleed, while natural cedar should take stain evenly. If multiple buyers report blotching or uneven absorption, the kiln drying or surface preparation may be inconsistent. Note coverage accuracy too, because some buyers calculate square footage carefully and still come up short after cuts around openings.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do cedar shingles and shakes last on a wall? With proper detailing and a maintained finish, kiln-dried cedar sidewall shingles commonly last 20 to 40 years; rough-split shakes can run longer with periodic care.

Do I need a rainscreen behind cedar siding? A ventilated rainscreen gap is strongly recommended behind cedar in most climates because it lets the back face dry and reduces cupping. In dry regions it is less critical but rarely a bad idea.

Can I paint over primed shingles right away? Factory-primed cedar still benefits from a short acclimation period and a finish topcoat rather than a heavy wall paint, which can trap moisture.

Are synthetic shake panels a good substitute for cedar? They are a strong substitute where low maintenance and consistent color are priorities, but they do not accept stain and can read as more uniform than real cedar.

What exposure should I use for 18-inch shingles? A typical 18-inch sidewall shingle uses a 5 to 5.5 inch exposure; check the grade stamp or carton label for the manufacturer’s recommended exposure before layout.

Final Recommendation

Start by measuring total wall or roof area, then decide whether natural weathering, a painted finish, or synthetic convenience matters most. Match that priority to the corresponding top pick, and order slightly more than the raw calculation requires to cover cutting waste and future repairs.